Downpipe bmw n 13

Quite often you can hear complaints from owners of the BMW brand E39 (as well as E53) about the fact that the engine starts to overheat if the air conditioner is turned on. Especially in hot weather. Standing in a traffic jam. This occurs for several reasons.
The most basic of these is a malfunction of the air conditioning fan. This is a rather serious failure. Due to which the air conditioner is impossible to operate. Of course, you can continue to drive with the fan idle. But then there is no guarantee that you will not have to repair the air conditioner itself. Or even worse. The entire motor system will be covered with a copper basin.

Self-repairing a fan breakdown is not a good idea. Especially in restyled models. But, as they say. There are kulibins among BMW fans who have some experience in fixing this device in garage conditions.

The main cause of overheating of the BMW E39 engine is a malfunction of the air conditioning fan.

External factors of wear

It should be noted that most often such failures occur in Russia due to temperature changes. The device simply can not withstand heavy loads in cold weather. Sometimes reaching a mark of -40 and with almost the same figure in plus in the summer. As a rule, the fan motor wears out mainly in outdated BMW models for about three to four years. If a failure occurs with the cars of the last years of production. Then this is mostly a marriage. The only right solution in this situation is to repair the fan in a car service under warranty.

What could break?

Before you start the repair. You need to understand what exactly can break in the fan itself.

It could be:

  • fan output stage;
  • fan relay;
  • fan motor;
  • power supply;
  • control voltage output.

Test of strength

It is first necessary to check the operation of the motor itself.

To do this. You need to apply twelve volts to the motor. Connecting two wires. Blue and brown. Between the board and the motor. And the third — minus control to the relay. If it works. We can say that the driver escaped with a slight startle. As it would be necessary to find and replace other parts. If the engine does not spin. Then there remains only the purchase of a new one. And this is fraught with great costs. Usually the motor itself rarely burns out. Its insides cause big problems. It will be useful to check the board’s operability. Namely its power supply at the very peak of the controller, the bank. And if the diode located at the circuit through which the power passes is broken. There is no absolute certainty that even specialists will be able to re-solder the fan and it will work. So you can get the courage and try to do it yourself.

Repair Features

Great difficulty in eliminating the breakdown is caused by a special gel composition covering the surface of the board. And ferid magnets. The gel prevents the detection of damage, simply say. They can hardly be discerned. And it will not be possible to select a suitable magnet at all. There are cases when some savvy craftsmen managed to repair the fan by stripping the magnets and gluing them to the freshly conductive Poxipol adhesive.

The motor case will also need to be cleaned from rust. Although it can be disassembled only by cutting off the pressed aluminum rivets on the back of the cover with a grinder. And upon completion of the repair work. You need to brew everything back by contact welding.

When a fan is jammed. Two resistors of the first and second speed will surely burn. The third works without resistors. At full power. You can also replace them. So to speak, at home. It is necessary to wind a nichrome wire a few turns on hard rubber. Insulate it and put instead of resistors.

By and large. The repair will take about two hours in the presence of the necessary parts. It is also advisable to visit the car wash with the fan removed and thoroughly rinse the radiator of the air conditioner and the fan frame. As the amount of adhering dirt complicates the full operation of the device.

Is it worth trying?

At the present time. Buying a new original fan is not difficult. It can be purchased at specialized stores or online. The only question is price and confidence. Unfortunately. It is extremely difficult to find individual parts. Since the whole device is usually sold for disassembly. But there is a chance to find a successfully restored fan that will last no less than a new one.

Experts say that recently the quality of spare parts manufactured under license for the BMW brand has deteriorated noticeably, and. In particular. The fans burn the same on old and advanced cars. Faced with a breakdown. Experts still recommend first to diagnose and consult with the mechanics. Even if the driver knows a lot and has experience in electrics.

In order to make the driver feel comfortable while driving. Car manufacturers use various modern technologies. One of the indicators of comfort when driving a vehicle is the presence of an air conditioning system. But Conder, like any other car unit. Can break down over time. For what reasons the fan of the BMW E39 air conditioner fails and how to replace it — find out in this article.

[Hide]

Fan malfunctions: their symptoms and causes

The failure of the air conditioning system fan can be due to two reasons — the wear of the device. Which is quite normal. Or its marriage. Typically, the life of the fan is about 3-4 years. But if it broke earlier. Then most likely the device is defective.

The cause of the breakdown may be:

  • in the breakdown of the output stage of the device;
  • inoperative relay;
  • in the failure of the electric motor;
  • lack of power. Which may be due to circuit damage;
  • in damage to the control voltage output.

The main reasons why the air conditioning system may fail:

  1. Lack of tightness. As a rule, in this case. The reason lies in the formation of corrosion or wear of rubber seals. Over time, the gaskets harden. And they may also lose their tightness due to inaccurate dismantling and installation. The pipes of the system can leak. Which are frayed over time.
  2. The compressor of the BMW E60 air conditioner broke. One of the most common malfunctions in this regard is considered to be mechanical jamming of the assembly. But this problem is quite rare. The compressor unit may jam as a result of untimely repair of the Conder. In particular. If the unit has been operating in a leaky condition for a long time. This leads to the ingress of dirt and dust into the system. And the working fluid may leak into the lower part of the compressor device. If you encounter such a problem. Then you will need not only repair. But also refueling the air conditioner.
  3. Debris and dust entering the system. Resulting in obstruction.
  4. Malfunctions of the electrical type. Again, such problems often occur as a result of moisture and dust entering the system. If moisture gets on the contact. Then over time it can oxidize and even rot.
  5. Failure of air dampers. As well as clogged cabin filter. Of course, these elements have a mediocre attitude to the air conditioning system. But it happens that the Conder works efficiently and the air in the cabin is not cooled. If the driver cannot control the air flow. Then most likely the reason lies in the dampers. And if the air flow itself is rather weak. Then most likely the filter element has clogged (the author of the video is IVANOFF Car Repair).

When is a fan replacement necessary?

The main reason why the fan most often breaks down is a failed electric motor. If the device does not work due to lack of power. Then this problem can be solved in garage conditions. For this you need to identify the damaged section of the circuit with a multimeter and replace it. If, when activating the Conder. You hear that the fan began to buzz. This indicates that it will soon fail. But if nothing happens after pressing the button. Most likely. The motor has broken.

It must be borne in mind that often the reason lies not in the electric motor itself. But in its control unit. To determine the breakdown. It is necessary to short-circuit two contacts on the terminal. If, as a result of a short circuit. The electric motor starts up. It will have to be changed together with the control unit (video author — Vyacheslav Empro).

Not so often. But still there is such a problem when the ventilating device simply jammed. Such a problem is a consequence of a detached magnet (one or more), which. As a result of peeling. Fall on the blades of the device. Thus putting it out of order.

If you decide to repair the air conditioner fan when it is stuck. Then consider that you will need:

  • remove the device in order to repair it; you will need to clean the place where the magnet was installed;
  • stick a new magnet;
  • using a grinder. Cut off the latches on the motor housing;
  • when reassembling. Use a welding machine;
  • replace two resistors that in any case fail when the fan jams.

As you can see. The procedure is quite complicated. So it will be easier to just replace the device.

Selection and purchase of parts

We will not talk about choosing a motor for a ventilating device on a BMW X5 E53 or another car — and so it is clear that the part is selected in accordance with the model of the car.

As for the purchase itself. In this case you have two options:

  1. The first is to buy a used part. It can be found either on the Internet or at a car disassembly. Of course, in this case no one will give you a guarantee that you will buy a normally working mechanism. So be prepared for the fact that the node may fail in a couple of weeks. The only advantage of this option is the cheapness. But you must understand that you take the risk.
  2. The second is to purchase the device in a store or on the Internet. Naturally, such a mechanism will cost an order of magnitude more expensive, however. You will be sure of its operability (the author of the video is web2wol).

Replacement Instructions

How is BMW X5 E53 replaced:

  1. First you need to dismantle the bumper. To do this, remove the grilles with an air duct in its lower part, as a rule. They are fixed on ordinary “caps”. Then, the fog lights are dismantled. Having done this. Without removing the wheels. You will need to unscrew the screws that fix the front of the protection directly to the bumper itself. Two screws are unscrewed on each side.
  2. Then look under the bottom of the bumper — you can see two bolts. They are unscrewed with a T-key. Having unscrewed them. The bumper should be carefully pulled towards you. But before that you need to remove the fenders of the protection of the arches. Unscrew the lights and carefully dismantle them. At this stage. You can also dismantle the moldings located in the lower part of the optics. Subsequently this will greatly simplify the procedure for mounting the bumper.
  3. Having done this. You can begin to dismantle the front casing of the ventilating device. The air duct and intake manifold are removed. And the air filter element and other small air ducts are removed to cool the generator assembly and brake discs. Only after removing these elements can you begin to dismantle the casing. It is fixed on 4 bolts (depending on the model of car. There may be 5 of them). As well as on three caps. You can see them from above.
  4. Having completed all the described steps. You can dismantle the fan itself. When the device is removed. It is either repaired or changed. In any case. After installing a new fan. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Home »Articles» BMW e39 how to remove an air conditioner fan

Quite often you can hear complaints from owners of the BMW brand E39 (as well as E53) about the fact that the engine starts to overheat if the air conditioner is turned on. Especially in hot weather. Standing in a traffic jam. This occurs for several reasons.

The most basic of these is a malfunction of the air conditioning fan. This is a rather serious failure. Due to which the air conditioner is impossible to operate. Of course, you can continue to drive with the fan idle. But then there is no guarantee that you will not have to repair the air conditioner itself. Or even worse. The entire motor system will be covered with a copper basin.

Self-repairing a fan breakdown is not a good idea. Especially in restyled models. But, as they say. There are kulibins among BMW fans who have some experience in fixing this device in garage conditions.

The main cause of overheating of the BMW E39 engine is a malfunction of the air conditioning fan.

It should be noted that most often such failures occur in Russia due to temperature changes. The device simply can not withstand heavy loads in cold weather. Sometimes reaching a mark of -40 and with almost the same figure in plus in the summer. As a rule, the fan motor wears out mainly in outdated BMW models for about three to four years. If a failure occurs with the cars of the last years of production. Then this is mostly a marriage. The only right solution in this situation is to repair the fan in a car service under warranty.

What could break?

Before you start the repair. You need to understand what exactly can break in the fan itself.

Air conditioner fan BMW E39

It could be:

  • fan output stage;
  • fan relay;
  • fan motor;
  • power supply;
  • control voltage output.

Test of strength

It is first necessary to check the operation of the motor itself.

BMW E39 air conditioning fan motor

To do this. You need to apply twelve volts to the motor. Connecting two wires. Blue and brown. Between the board and the motor. And the third — minus control to the relay. If it works. We can say that the driver escaped with a slight startle. As it would be necessary to find and replace other parts. If the engine does not spin. Then there remains only the purchase of a new one. And this is fraught with great costs. Usually the motor itself rarely burns out. Its insides cause big problems. It will be useful to check the board’s operability. Namely its power supply at the very peak of the controller, the bank. And if the diode located at the circuit through which the power passes is broken. There is no absolute certainty that even specialists will be able to re-solder the fan and it will work. So you can get the courage and try to do it yourself.

Repair Features

Great difficulty in eliminating the breakdown is caused by a special gel composition covering the surface of the board. And ferid magnets. The gel prevents the detection of damage, simply say. They can hardly be discerned. And it will not be possible to select a suitable magnet at all. There are cases when some savvy craftsmen managed to repair the fan by stripping the magnets and gluing them to the freshly conductive Poxipol adhesive.

The motor case will also need to be cleaned from rust. Although it can be disassembled only by cutting off the pressed aluminum rivets on the back of the cover with a grinder. And upon completion of the repair work. You need to brew everything back by contact welding.

When a fan is jammed. Two resistors of the first and second speed will surely burn. The third works without resistors. At full power. You can also replace them. So to speak, at home. It is necessary to wind a nichrome wire a few turns on hard rubber. Insulate it and put instead of resistors.

By and large. The repair will take about two hours in the presence of the necessary parts. It is also advisable to visit the car wash with the fan removed and thoroughly rinse the radiator of the air conditioner and the fan frame. As the amount of adhering dirt complicates the full operation of the device.

Is it worth trying?

At the present time. Buying a new original fan is not difficult. It can be purchased at specialized stores or online. The only question is price and confidence. Unfortunately. It is extremely difficult to find individual parts. Since the whole device is usually sold for disassembly. But there is a chance to find a successfully restored fan that will last no less than a new one.

Experts say that recently the quality of spare parts manufactured under license for the BMW brand has deteriorated noticeably, and. In particular. The fans burn the same on old and advanced cars. Faced with a breakdown. Experts still recommend first to diagnose and consult with the mechanics. Even if the driver knows a lot and has experience in electrics.

How to restore the operation of the fan of the air conditioner BMW E39 and other models?

In order to make the driver feel comfortable while driving. Car manufacturers use various modern technologies. One of the indicators of comfort when driving a vehicle is the presence of an air conditioning system. But Conder, like any other car unit. Can break down over time. For what reasons the fan of the BMW E39 air conditioner fails and how to replace it — find out in this article.

The failure of the air conditioning system fan can be due to two reasons — the wear of the device. Which is quite normal. Or its marriage. Typically, the life of the fan is about 3-4 years. But if it broke earlier. Then most likely the device is defective.

The cause of the breakdown may be:

  • in the breakdown of the output stage of the device;
  • inoperative relay;
  • in the failure of the electric motor;
  • lack of power. Which may be due to circuit damage;
  • in damage to the control voltage output.

Fan motor

The main reasons why the air conditioning system may fail:

  1. Lack of tightness. As a rule, in this case. The reason lies in the formation of corrosion or wear of rubber seals. Over time, the gaskets harden. And they may also lose their tightness due to inaccurate dismantling and installation. The pipes of the system can leak. Which are frayed over time.
  2. The compressor of the BMW E60 air conditioner broke. One of the most common malfunctions in this regard is considered to be mechanical jamming of the assembly. But this problem is quite rare. The compressor unit may jam as a result of untimely repair of the Conder. In particular. If the unit has been operating in a leaky condition for a long time. This leads to the ingress of dirt and dust into the system. And the working fluid may leak into the lower part of the compressor device. If you encounter such a problem. Then you will need not only repair. But also refueling the air conditioner.
  3. Debris and dust entering the system. Resulting in obstruction.
  4. Malfunctions of the electrical type. Again, such problems often occur as a result of moisture and dust entering the system. If moisture gets on the contact. Then over time it can oxidize and even rot.
  5. Failure of air dampers. As well as clogged cabin filter. Of course, these elements have a mediocre attitude to the air conditioning system. But it happens that the Conder works efficiently and the air in the cabin is not cooled. If the driver cannot control the air flow. Then most likely the reason lies in the dampers. And if the air flow itself is rather weak. Then most likely the filter element has clogged (the author of the video is IVANOFF Car Repair).

When is a fan replacement necessary?

The main reason why the fan most often breaks down is a failed electric motor. If the device does not work due to lack of power. Then this problem can be solved in garage conditions. For this you need to identify the damaged section of the circuit with a multimeter and replace it. If, when activating the Conder. You hear that the fan began to buzz. This indicates that it will soon fail. But if nothing happens after pressing the button. Most likely. The motor has broken.

It must be borne in mind that often the reason lies not in the electric motor itself. But in its control unit. To determine the breakdown. It is necessary to short-circuit two contacts on the terminal. If, as a result of a short circuit. The electric motor starts up. It will have to be changed together with the control unit (video author — Vyacheslav Empro).

Not so often. But still there is such a problem when the ventilating device simply jammed. Such a problem is a consequence of a detached magnet (one or more), which. As a result of peeling. Fall on the blades of the device. Thus putting it out of order.

If you decide to repair the air conditioner fan when it is stuck. Then consider that you will need:

  • remove the device in order to repair it; you will need to clean the place where the magnet was installed;
  • stick a new magnet;
  • using a grinder. Cut off the latches on the motor housing;
  • when reassembling. Use a welding machine;
  • replace two resistors that in any case fail when the fan jams.

As you can see. The procedure is quite complicated. So it will be easier to just replace the device.

Selection and purchase of parts

We will not talk about choosing a motor for a ventilating device on a BMW X5 E53 or another car — and so it is clear that the part is selected in accordance with the model of the car.

As for the purchase itself. In this case you have two options:

  1. The first is to buy a used part. It can be found either on the Internet or at a car disassembly. Of course, in this case no one will give you a guarantee that you will buy a normally working mechanism. So be prepared for the fact that the node may fail in a couple of weeks. The only advantage of this option is the cheapness. But you must understand that you take the risk.
  2. The second is to purchase the device in a store or on the Internet. Naturally, such a mechanism will cost an order of magnitude more expensive, however. You will be sure of its operability (the author of the video is web2wol).

Replacement Instructions

How to replace a fan on a BMW X5 E53 car:

  1. First you need to dismantle the bumper. To do this, remove the grilles with an air duct in its lower part, as a rule. They are fixed on ordinary “caps”. Then, the fog lights are dismantled. Having done this. Without removing the wheels. You will need to unscrew the screws that fix the front of the protection directly to the bumper itself. Two screws are unscrewed on each side.
  2. Then look under the bottom of the bumper — you can see two bolts. They are unscrewed with a T-key. Having unscrewed them. The bumper should be carefully pulled towards you. But before that you need to remove the fenders of the protection of the arches. Unscrew the lights and carefully dismantle them. At this stage. You can also dismantle the moldings located in the lower part of the optics. Subsequently this will greatly simplify the procedure for mounting the bumper.
  3. Having done this. You can begin to dismantle the front casing of the ventilating device. The air duct and intake manifold are removed. And the air filter element and other small air ducts are removed to cool the generator assembly and brake discs. Only after removing these elements can you begin to dismantle the casing. It is fixed on 4 bolts (depending on the model of car. There may be 5 of them). As well as on three caps. You can see them from above.
  4. Having completed all the described steps. You can dismantle the fan itself. When the device is removed. It is either repaired or changed. In any case. After installing a new fan. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Photo Gallery “Change the fan yourself”

  1. Remove the fog lights. 2. Remove the bumper from the vehicle. 3. Disconnect air ducts. Then remove a forward casing. 4. Now it remains only to dismantle the fan and replace it. Loading…

Video «Refueling a BMW E39 car air conditioner»

How to fill the conder with your own hands — detailed instructions for carrying out one of the main stages of system maintenance are shown in the video below (author — alex max channel).

Repair fan for air conditioner BMW e39:

The problem manifested itself on one of the hot days during a downtime in a traffic jam with the air conditioner on. The coolant temperature arrow slowly crawled up. After which the B C indicated the need to check the antifreeze level. After opening the hood. A leak was revealed from under the expansion tank … In search of a leak. An electric fan. Which stopped turning on. And the coupling fell along with the replacement. To begin with. It was decided to replace the coupling

  After replacing the clutch. It was decided to dismantle the “face” in the car in search of a reason.

After the forced restart of the motor. He showed some signs of life. Cutting the insulation on a bend revealed the following

After this, the bend was cut and sealed again, however. The motor continued to turn on once and with an interference fit. It was decided to disassemble it completely.

All rust was removed from the stator and magnets. After which everything was purged and degreased. The brushes were in good condition.

A test run showed that the motor began to spin easily like new.

Everything soldered back and assembled in reverse order. The motor works without problems at all three speeds. When you turn on the air conditioner. The fan immediately starts to rotate.

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Repair of a kondeya fan /// from e39 to e53 — logbook BMW X5 BOA R extension))) 2003 on DRIVE2

My fan recently broke. The symptoms of death were such — twitches. But does not start. Sometimes you knock on it and it will work … Watch the first couple of seconds. Then you can not watch ; -)

The decision to buy a new original is 22 000 rub. (hellish price tag). Used original with parse — from 9000r. . Buy a motor separately — from 5000r. But to give a ton of money for a new one. A toad smothers. Buy a used one as an option. But all for a long time. Because not available on site. But buying in another city (there’s a pig in a bag. Because you can’t check it yourself. But there is no trust) and it is not known whether the worker will come and it is not known how long he will work. I turned to my guys in BMVKLUBUBUBAN and a friend suggested taking a working fan from him with the E39 Restayl original Siemens whose bearing fell apart! It was decided, done. Sent 500r for a friend. Even though he refused! On the same day they handed over the bus and the OPERATION on organ transplantation started! I took apart the donor. The brains seem to be in order. There is a big backlash on the valve bearing — oh well. I went and scattered my car under the porch. Amputated the vent and brought it home! I will say right away — I shot everything because it was necessary to rehearse some moments on plastic from the old owner. And to check how the radiators feel! And then it starts — that they say you do not have to throw your face, etc. Etc. I will say this — you can not scatter. But to pull down the vent from a car standing on the ground — this is A D (my opinion). I dismembered two vents. Wiped the brains from the e39 donor. Cleaned them. And missed. On his missed bearing. Rubbed and all. He drew the wires from both the doorway and his own without a twinge of conscience. Then twisted them and soldered them with a soldering iron. Wound the whole thing with a cloth tape. And then skimmed the whole wire from beginning to end with a regular tape. S / h I collected everything in the reverse order. Result: everything works. I noticed that apparently due to the fact that everything was missed. The fan works much quieter … Issue price: 500 rubles. For vent + 200r. Transfer by bus + 55r. Rag tape + a piece of sandpaper (free) + soldering iron (free).

I stuck the diagnostics. Threw off the errors and that’s it!

donor — fan with E39 Restayl

the chip on the e39 is not the same as on the e53 (so it’s in the furnace)

original SIEMENS (in restyling brains are in the fan itself. Unlike dorestayl)

disassembled air conditioner engine

i was terrified at first of the amount of dust. But when rubbed — I saw that everything was flooded with some kind of crap. Like a soft epoxy silicone

second part of the engine

the big picture from a different angle — disassembled motor fan air conditioner

it looks like vent on e53 when it is in a car

and it looks like that)))

analysis of muzzle No. 1 went

the result of the analysis of the muzzle №2

the result of the analysis of the muzzle number 3

website

BMW 5 Repair: Removing and installing the fan and the BMW 5 fan clutch (E39)

Removing and installing fan and fan clutch

The viscous coupling must be replaced if the hub has seizure marks. In this case. The fan does not rotate with difficulty when the engine is stationary. The coupling must also be replaced if the axial or radial clearance exceeds 0.6 mm. To check, it is necessary to move the fan in different directions. Oil should not leak out of the hub.

When loosening the nut. Tighten the V-belt of the coolant pump. Thus holding the hub from rotation. If the nut sits very firmly. Hit the wrench with a hammer to loosen the nut. (BMW workshops use a special tool for this. Holding the pulley by the bolt heads). After loosening the nut. You can completely unscrew it by rotating the impeller. In this case. You must pay attention to the impeller does not fall.

1. BMW 5 Series cars 1.0 BMW 5 Series tomobiles 1.1 Vehicle identification numbers 1.2 Spare parts purchase 1.3 Service technology. Tools and equipment for the workplace 1.4 Jacking and towing 1.5 Starting the engine from an auxiliary power supply 1.6 Checking the vehicle for operation 1.7 Automobile chemicals. Oils and lubricants 1.8 Diagnostics of malfunctions

2. Operating Instructions 2.0 Operating Instructions 2.1 Controls. Devices and warning lights 2.2 Locking devices and anti-theft alarm 2.3 Interior equipment 2.4 Security systems 2.5 Fueling. Starting and stopping the engine 2.6 Parking brake 2.7 Manual gearbox 2.8 Automatic transmission transmission (А Т) * 2.9 Tempostat 2.10 Alarm of the emergency approach at the parking (PDC) * 2.11 System of automatic stabilization of stability with the draft control (ASC + T) 2.12 Electronic adjustment Depreciation Stability (EDC) * and ride height adjustment 2.13 Lighting 2.14 Heating and ventilation systems 2.15 Automatic air conditioning * 2.16 Autonomous heating and ventilation systems 2.17 Self-diagnosis system * 2.18 Trip computer 2.19 Run-in 2.20 Catalytic converter 2.21 Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 2.22 Trailer movement 2.23 Roof rack 2.24 Car phone * 2.25 Radio 2.26 Changing headlights 2.27 Hood 2.28 Car radio 2.29 Hi-Fi audio system with DSP * 2.30 Warning triangle * 2.31 First aid kit *

3. Routine care and maintenance 3.0 Routine care and maintenance 3.1 Schedule of routine maintenance 3.2 Introduction 3.3 Routine care 3.4 General setup information 3.5 Checking fluid levels 3.6 Checking tire condition and pressure 3.7 Changing engine oil and oil filter 3.8 Checking and adjusting idle speed engine speed and C O level 3.9 Replacing the air filter element 3.10 Replacing the cabin air filter 3.11 Checking the brake system 3.12 Visual inspection of the underbody and body elements 3.13 Checking the fluid level of the hydraulic booster system I am steering 3.14 Wheels and tires. Rotation, replacement. Balancing and maintenance. Snow chains. «Secret» wheels. Eliminate jitter steering. 3.15 Checking the condition and replacing the hoses of the engine compartment 3.16 Checking the condition of the drive belts 3.17 Checking the condition of the battery. Taking care of it and charging. Replacing the remote control remote control battery 3.18. Checking and replacing spark plugs 3.19. Checking the fuel system. Winter operation of the Diesel 3.20 Checking the functioning of the cooling system 3.21 Checking the condition of the exhaust system 3.22 Checking the condition of the suspension and steering components 3.23 Checking the condition of the protective covers for the drive shafts 3.24 Lubricating the locking devices 3.25 Visual inspection of the seat belts 3.26 Checking the condition and replacing the wiper blades 3.27 Changing the brake fluid 3.28 Replacing the fluid in the cooling system. Checking the frost resistance of the cooler. Visual inspection of the cooling system 3.29 Removing sludge. Replacing the fuel filter. Removing air from the fuel system of a diesel engine 3.30 Changing the gearbox oil of a manual gearbox 3.31 Changing the differential lubricant 3.32 Checking the thickness of the clutch disc

4. Engine 4.0 Engine 4.1. Engine repair procedures 4.2. Engine lubrication system

5. Cooling and heating systems 5.0. Cooling and heating systems 5.1. Cooling system 5.2. Heater 5.3. Air conditioner

6. Power supply and release systems 6.0 Power supply and release systems 6.1. Power supply system 6.2. System of injection of the gasoline engine 6.3. The power supply system of the diesel engine 6.4. Exhaust system

7. An electric equipment of the engine 7.0 An electric equipment of the engine 7.1. The ignition system 7.2. The system prednakal diesel engine 7.3. Charge and launch systems

8. Manual gearbox 8.0 Manual gearbox 8.1. Removal and installation of manual transmission and A T 8.2. Removal and installation of gear lever

9. Automatic transmission 9.0 Automatic transmission 9.1 Removing and installing automatic transmission 9.2 Adjusting the gear shift drive 9.3 Checking the level and changing the oil of the automatic transmission

10. Coupling and power shafts 10.0. Coupling and power shafts 10.1. Coupling 10.2. Drive shafts

11. Brake system 11.0 Brake system 11.1 Anti-lock system 11.2 Removing and installing the front brake pads 11.3 Removing and installing the brake disc / caliper of the front brake 11.4 Removing and installing the rear brake pads 11.5 Removing and installing the rear brake calipers 11.6 Removing and installing the brake disk of the rear wheels 11.7 Measuring the thickness of the brake disc 11.8 Brake fluid 11.9 Removing air from the brake system 11.10 Replacing the brake pipes 11.11 Replacing the front brake hose 11.12 Checking the vacuum force the brake caliper 11.13 Removing and installing the brake pads of the parking brake 11.14 Adjusting the parking brake 11.15 Removing and installing the lever of the parking brake 11.16 Removing and installing the parking brake cable 11.17 Checking and replacing the brake light switch

12. A suspension bracket and a steering 12.0. A suspension bracket and a steering 12.1. A forward suspension bracket 12.2. A back suspension bracket 12.3. Steering

13. Body 13.0 Body 13.1 Body care 13.2 Care for vinyl trim panels 13.3 Care for upholstery and floor mats 13.4 Repair of minor damage to body panels 13.5 Repair of significant damage to the body 13.6 Body clearances 13.7 Removing and installing the front bumper 13.8 Removing and installing front shock absorbers bumper 13.9 Removing and installing the rear bumper 13.10 Removing and installing the shock absorber of the rear bumper 13.11 Removing and installing the front wing 13.12 Removing and installing the hood 13.13 Adjusting the position of the hood 13.14 Removing and tanning the boot lid 13.15 Adjusting the position of the boot lid 13.16 Removing and installing the rear lining of the boot 13.17 Removing and installing the lock of the boot lid / cylinder lock 13.18 Removing and installing the gas-filled bonnet / boot lid stop 13.19 Replacing the trim / logo 13.20 Removing. Installing and adjusting the door 13.21 Removing and installing the door trim 13.22 Removing and installing the door lock 13.23 Removing and installing the external door handle 13.24 Removing and installing the lock cylinder 13.25 Removing and installing the electric motor / microswitch fir-tree of a single lock 13.26 Removing. Installing and adjusting the door glass 13.27 Removing and installing the power window 13.28 Removing and installing the exterior mirror 13.29 Removing and installing the mirror glass 13.30 Removing and installing the exterior mirror housing 13.31 Removing and installing the internal mirror 13.32 Removing and installing the center console 13.33 Removing and installation of the electric motor of the sliding panel of the sunroof 13.34 Removing and installing the front seat 13.35 Seat belt tensioner 13.36 Safety precautions when handling the device 13.37 stringing belt protection belt tensioning device 13.38 Removing and installing rear seat 13.39 Removing and installing shelves for headgear 13.40 Removing and installing rear window blinds

14. On-board electrical equipment 14.0 On-board electrical equipment 14.1 Fault diagnosis of on-board electrical equipment — general information 14.2 Fuses 14.3 Fuse-links 14.4 Circuit breakers (thermal relays) 14.5 Relays 14.6 Checking relays 14.7 Checking incandescent lamps 14.8 Checking electric motors 14.9 Checking electric switches 14.10 Checking lamp and motor switches 14.11 Checking the sensors 14.12 Checking the wiper motor 14.13 Checking the brake light 14.14 Checking the rear window defroster 14.15 Removing and installing the switch 14.16 Removing and installing the temperature sensor 14.17 Removing. Installing and checking the sound signal 14.18 Initializing the remote control with a single lock 14.19 Adjusting the headlamp range 14.20 Removing and installing the electric motor for adjusting the light range 14.21 Replacing the fuses 14.22 Location of the fuses 14.23 Lighting devices 14.24 Replacing the incandescent lamps 14.25 Removing and installing the headlamp 14.26 Adjusting the headlights 14.27 Removing and installing the taillight 14.28 Control devices 14.29 Removing and installing the instrument panel assembly 14.30 Replacing the dashboard unit lamps 14.31 Removing and installing the turn signal / wiper switch 14.32 Removing and installing the radio receiver 14.33 Wiper 14.34 Replacing the wiper blades 14.35 Removing. Installing and adjusting the washer nozzles 14.36 Removing and installing the wiper / cover drive 14.37 Removing and installing the wiper motor 148.3 and washer pump replacement 14.39 Working with electrical circuits

15. Electrical circuits 15.0 Electrical circuits 15.1 Glow plugs. Glow plug relays 15.2 Injector 5 + 6 (520i) 15.3 Intake air temperature sensor 15.4 Fuel system 15.5 Servotronik 15.6 Sound signals 15.7 Wiper switch 15.8 Window wiper-washer control 15.9 Outside mirror without memory ( driver’s side) 15.10 Outside mirror without memory (front passenger side) 15.11 Blinding outside mirror 15.12 Power K-bus. Blinding inside mirror 15.13 Turn signal switch 15.14 Turn off alarm indicator 15.15 Front lights 15.16 Fog lights 15.17 Headlamp leveling (manual) 15.18 Left direction indicator 15.19 Tail lights 15.20 Stop lights 15.21 Stop light (high position) 15.22 Brake light switch 15.23 License plate lights 15.24 Rear left interior light 15.25 Lighting the cosmetic mirror 15.26 Charging socket. Lighting the drawer 15.27 Power supply for the C D changer (multi-disc player) 15.28 Antenna on the rear window 15.29 Engine management system and unit connector management. Models 520i, 523i, 528i 15.30 Anti-lock brake system and ABS control unit connector. All models 15.31. Schematic diagram of the switching of the 20-pin diagnostic connector 15.32. Waveforms of signals at the terminals of the connector of the engine control unit 15.33. On-Board Diagnostic System

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Cleaning the air conditioner evaporator (what the E39 looks like from the inside) — logbook BMW 5 series 4.4 1998 on DRIVE2

As promised in the last bortovik that I’ll take care of the air conditioning system, well. Or at least I’ll see what is there. Since the plans are to install rear tweeters in the doors. And front parking sensors. You need to disassemble the interior for laying wires.

I started with siduh. An hour and everything outside the cabin. I will not paint because everything is in the yew.

To remove the front seat. You need to unscrew the 4 bolts and remove the belt tension belt, well. Unscrew the belt itself from the seat

When the cabin became spacious. I began to remove the beard. Which is removed more difficult than the seats.

About 4 hours it was transported. If with smoke breaks then 6.

The next day. The torpedo also went for a walk)))

It is seen on every centimeter that the Germans sought the best sound insulation.

An hour and a torpedo smokes on the sidelines))

Just wash all the ducts))

Having removed the seal. I wanted to look at the condition of the interior fan. Since it was whistling at positive temperature. And I got to it.

At first glance. The view is not very. It is covered in copper dust from brushes.

When I took it out. I was surprised how the brushes wiped the collector.

The development of the collector is about a millimeter 3))

The poor thing twists on his last breath.

Either there will be a complete replacement of the fan. Or a major overhaul with the replacement of brushes and a new collector))

I still haven’t decided what the fan is waiting for. Since I removed the fan. There was immediately little access to the evaporator. (WEL L AND ODO R FRO M I T) it’s just awful. Well, I immediately wanted to remove the evaporator. B Y BMW TIS OFFER T O REMOV E WITHOUT REMOVIN G THE WHOLE CLIMATE UNI T. BUT BELIEVE THI S GEMORAH I S ANOTHER AND UNREALABL E. BUT I TRIED.

He took off the front amplifier. The so-called strut.

You still need to remove the glove compartment. But I did not want to get it that way.

I will not cheat. It was dumb when you see your typewriter in this form.

To be honest. Engine repair. Circuit replacement and all that. Kindergarten compared to this puzzle.

The block itself on latches and screws. Which is up to a hundred. And I decided to take the risk to disassemble the entire box without removing it from the car.

I barely took off the left side. And realized that I needed to remove the entire block. Since everything can be broken on the machine. The screws in hard-to-reach places.

Looking at the evaporator. It was clear how he was poisoning the oil. And all doubts had already evaporated whether to remove or not.

You can see how the oil seeped through the gaskets))

Well, a problem arose with the refrigerant. How to bleed it … I asked at the service station. They said I had to pump it out. But since I wasn’t on the move I couldn’t come. And I consulted with people who said it’s impossible to bleed it myself so as not to freeze my fingers and so on. In short DANGE R. But on the advice of Vlad. One teammate decided everything. He said twist the fitting and sit down next to it)))

I pushed his idea a little bit …

I cut the bottle and bleed by pressing the check valve. And I realized that there was a lot of noise from unknowing people. For a minute everything blew and the work went …

Then he unscrewed three pipes on the radiator of the stove.

You can safely remove. The liquid will spill out quite a bit. To remove the protective rubber. It must be greased with silicone or oil.

The unit itself is mounted on three nuts at 10. One in the center and two under the elastic bands where the air conditioning and coolant pipes. When removing two tubes on the refrigerant. Six hexagon bolts burst. Since it has been stupidly stuck there for 15 years. It will be necessary replace.

Unscrewing everything. I got everything assembled.

The smell permeated everything in the flesh to plastic (((

Well, the view in the cabin.

Again, I never cease to be surprised how everything is clearly fitted with a sealant))

Well, then what are we breathing …

All in dust. And even garbage got.

And here is the radiator itself.

Advise how to wash it without damaging the honeycomb?

Well, 70 percent are to blame for these air ducts that let dust pass by filters.

Either change the whole assembly. Or a new gasket new))

And if you still think that some kind of foam will pop into the air duct and everything will be cleaned. Then these are all fairy tales. The smell will go away for a month. And the reason will remain.

Only a thorough thorough washing and sealing of the system will give the result.

So we have a big wash)))

Thanks for attention))